Recently opened MASH (standing for Modern American Steakhouse, not the potato variety) in the former Regent Palace Hotel building on Brewer Street, is the first of its kind to open outside in London. In fact, it’s not American at all, but Danish originally, and this is the first ever international branch. It’s the leading steakhouse in Denmark, and is high end, and huge. It’s only a couple of doors down from critics’ fave Brasserie Zedel.
We got off to a flying start with what was up until that point (more on that in a few days) the best mac n cheese I’ve ever had, as an entree. Technically a side dish, they didn’t even bat an eyelid at me having it as a starter (and luckily neither did my date.)
The steaks (my house “American Steak and Fries” – £25 and my date’s Greater Omaha Bone in Rib Eye – £43) were both cooked exactly as we’d ordered, and yet, for some inexplicable reason they just weren’t that flavoursome. You can order unlimited steak sauces to accompany the meat, which is a nice touch, and unfortunately we found it necessary to max out our peppercorn sauce to make the meat a bit more interesting.
On the upside, the chip portions were enormous (probably enough for two with standard appetites) and the chips were fine, but if you go I’d opt for the chilli fries.
I arrived early, so seemed sensible to try out the little bar while I waited. The cocktail menu makes for great reading and I found my ‘Knickerbocker’ to be a solidly good drink (if again, not overly memorable). We had an argentine Malbec with the steak which was perfect for the meal and very reasonable at £27 compared to most of the wine menu.
We were lucky to attend the soft launch week when food was 50% off, but it still felt pretty expensive for what it was and not quite worth it. At full price, I think we would have been outraged rather than just unenthusiastic. The service was also very slow (it took us an age to manage to order a bottle of wine) but maybe that was just teething problems, and the food came really fast.
Go there if…
You want a lovely atmosphere, like to try new places for yourself before passing judgement and you want to impress a date by ordering a £50 steak (before sides) in a big restaurant where it should be relatively easy to get a reservation…or you’re too drunk to care much about the taste.
Don’t go there if…
You can get a booking at The Hawksmoor for the same night.
If you’re pretending to have been there don’t forget to mention…
There’s a summary wine list on the back of the menu which is handy given that the detailed wine list they provide requires two people to lift and a spare few hours to wade through. The charcuterie starter includes fois gras which isn’t mentioned on the menu and more principled people might find this surprising.
For more information…